Our Blog

Watches

Vintage Watches: A 1987 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, A 1977 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, And A 1950s Universal Genève Polerouter

By November 25, 2022
vintage-watches:-a-1987-audemars-piguet-royal-oak,-a-1977-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date,-and-a-1950s-universal-geneve-polerouter

, Vintage Watches: A 1987 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, A 1977 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, And A 1950s Universal Genève Polerouter

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the Hodinkee Shop, click here.

As we gather to celebrate American Thanksgiving and generally end the year on a high note, mind your p-words around your non-watch friends and family. We’re talking about patina and provenance. While these p-words roll off our tongues and keyboards with little hesitation, to people who are not watch-pilled, they can be a bit jarring. The easiest way to tell on yourself and your journey from someone with cool watches to someone who spends a lot of time talking to people they know only by username, is to comment on how the turkey skin resembles your 1950s Rolex Bubbleback’s gorgeous dial patina.

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/geneve-dress-watch-ref-211203-2" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1950s Universal Genève Dress Watch Ref. 211203/2</a></p> <p>‘ srcset=”https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/3371_UG-DRESS-WATCH-REF-211203_WRIST_163_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000 1x, https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/3371_UG-DRESS-WATCH-REF-211203_WRIST_163_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000&dpr=2 2x” src=”https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/3371_UG-DRESS-WATCH-REF-211203_WRIST_163_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000″><figcaption> <p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/geneve-dress-watch-ref-211203-2" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1950s Universal Genève Dress Watch Ref. 211203/2</a></p> </figcaption></figure> <figure> <img alt=1969 Tudor Oyster Prince Date+Day Ref. 7019/3 In Two Tone

‘ srcset=”https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/Tudor_Oyster-Prince-Date-Day-18k-YG-Steel_Ref7019-3_case-no697126_3384_Wrist_099_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000 1x, https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/Tudor_Oyster-Prince-Date-Day-18k-YG-Steel_Ref7019-3_case-no697126_3384_Wrist_099_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000&dpr=2 2x” src=”https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/Tudor_Oyster-Prince-Date-Day-18k-YG-Steel_Ref7019-3_case-no697126_3384_Wrist_099_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000″>

1969 Tudor Oyster Prince Date+Day Ref. 7019/3 In Two Tone

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/date-1501-steel-no-bracelet-case-no-5273532" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1978 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 1501</a></p> <p>‘ data-srcset=”https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/Rolex_Date-1501-steel_case-no5273532_3387_Wrist_139_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000 1x, https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/Rolex_Date-1501-steel_case-no5273532_3387_Wrist_139_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000&dpr=2 2x” data-src=”https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/Rolex_Date-1501-steel_case-no5273532_3387_Wrist_139_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000″><figcaption> <p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/date-1501-steel-no-bracelet-case-no-5273532" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1978 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 1501</a></p> </figcaption></figure> <p>Consider this a safe space, somewhere to share all your provenance and patina thoughts before the big days right around the corner. Provenance is harder to come by but, have no fear, the Hodinkee vintage drop this week features enough patina to fill a gravy boat. The team takes their picks with Rich Fordon focusing on a 1987 AP Royal Oak with plenty of graceful aging, Sean Egan takes us through an uncommon Rolex OP Date with a dial patina that borders on “tropical,” and Saori Omura brings Gérald Genta’s Universal Genève to the table. This Wednesday’s drop does not end there, click <a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vintage-watches" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> to see all the vintage watches available in the Hodinkee Shop.</p> <h3>1987 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Day Date With Moonphase Ref. 25594</h3> <p>By Rich Fordon</p> <p>Did I just write about an Audemars Piguet in last week’s Vintage Watches article? Yes. Did I somewhat discount the Royal Oak in that article? Also, yes – now let me clarify. AP is more than the time-only Royal Oak, in any reference. Let’s just go ahead and link to the same classic Hodinkee article and video I surfaced last Wednesday – <a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-the-archives-of-audemars-piguet" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><i>Historical Perspectives: Inside The Archives Of Audemars Piguet</i></a>. The watches shown in this piece from 2014 represent the core of AP before the Royal Oak in 1972 – precious metals, complicated, made in small numbers, and so, so elegantly designed.</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="An AP Royal Oak Day Date Moonphase on the wrist" data-src="https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/3394_AP-ROYAL-OAK-DAY-DATE-MOON-18K_WRIST_138_full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>Just like the <a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/day-date-18k-yellow-gold-matching-black-alligator-strap-and-buckle-case-no-b-87316" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">ref. 25574</a> that we offered last week, this Royal Oak Day Date With Moonphase hits all the right notes for me. As shown in the Historical Perspectives video, AP has a long history of calendar complications. Therefore, it was only right that in 1983, a day and date was the first complication to be featured in the mid-sized, 36mm case diameter, Royal Oak. Two years later in 1985, this watch, the ref. 25594 was introduced, adding a moonphase to the mix with the caliber 2825 inside. The complication layout on the dial is really well executed as are the fonts which are restrained enough so as to not draw too much attention. In this example, the case and bracelet steal the show more so than on your standard Royal Oak because of the warm, almost rose gold-esque patina – even with the dial complications. In my view, the case and bracelet are absolutely unpolished.</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="An AP Royal Oak Day Date Moonphase" data-src="https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/3394_AP-ROYAL-OAK-DAY-DATE-MOON-18K_LIFESTYLE_121_HH_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>A few smaller, possibly overlooked details of this watch that are catching my eye include the earlier “block font” Audemars Piguet signature and the creamy dial texture. With the gold case, bracelet, and dial furniture, the warm cream dial tone is a nice change of pace, slightly breaking up the all-gold look and harder-to-find in the vintage market today. Get all the details on this “not your father’s Royal Oak” right <a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-in-18k-yellow-gold-ref-25594-ba-c-978-with-papers" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> in the Hodinkee Shop.</p> <h3>1977 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 1530</h3> <p>By Sean Egan</p> <p>When I was working in a retail watch shop, a question I got more than once was, “Rolexes don’t tick, right?” and it took me a while to come up with what I thought was a satisfactory answer. The best I could come up with was: “no, modern Rolex watches do not tick.” As enthusiasts, we know that while Rolex made several different models that did in fact tick over the years, but I wasn’t about to drag unexpecting shoppers through a history of the Tru-Beat and Oysterquartz. Every once and a little while someone would volunteer to listen to my rants, and I would hope that their eyes wouldn’t glaze over. </p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="A Rolex OP Date on the wrist" data-src="https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/Rolex_Oyster-Date-oysterquartz-case_10-40-ROL-8HEM93_Wrist_085_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>That rant was what I thought I was going to share until I took a closer look at the watch we have today. The legend told about the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1530 is that the Crown had started development of the Beta 21 quartz movement, and wanted to put this movement in a new case. However, they’d finished designing the case before the movement could be completed to their satisfaction, so they decided to load up their new case with their Datejust movement and make some watches in the meantime. Given Rolex’s tight-lipped nature we’ll likely never know if this is the truth or just watch nerd apocrypha. This story does seem all the more likely given the very short (two-ish year) production run of the 1530 and after 1977 we only see this case fitted with quartz movements. Check out the most misleading Rolex right <a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/date-oyster" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="A Rolex OP Date" data-src="https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/Rolex_Oyster-Date-oysterquartz-case_10-40-ROL-8HEM93_Lifestyle_029_Full_JG.jpg638003c52df2f.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <h3>1950s Universal Genève Polerouter Ref. 20217-4</h3> <p>By Saori Omura</p> <p>The Universal Genève Polerouter is a beautifully executed watch and probably the most recognized watch design by UG with an official model name. This is the thing about great designs: they remain relevant after decades and become better as time goes on. Such is the case with the case shape with the twisted lyre lugs, the engine-turned outer track against the now wonderfully patinated deep black dial with the crosshair motif, and the creamy lume color. On the inside, the earlier watches like this example have the bumper movement, the precursor to the micro-rotor self-winding movement. Attention to small details always matters, but making these small details come together as a cohesive whole is a whole other challenge. In my mind, this is what makes or breaks the watch, whether the watch is destined for longevity or easily forgotten.</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="A Polerouter on the wrist" data-src="https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/Universal-Geneve_Polerouter-Date-Automatic-18k-YG_Ref169101-07_3382_Wrist_119_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>Much has already been written on how great the Polerouter is, so I want to turn the focus for a second on Gérald Genta as the watch designer credited for the design.  His contribution to the history of watch design deserves the word “iconic” which I do not float around very often. He had the innate ability to pile up small details and make them come together as one distinctly unique style, which eventually became closely associated with each brand he worked with. Think 1972 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with the octagonal bezel with the screws and the integrated bracelet. Think 1976 Patek Philippe Nautilus with the porthole motif with the “winged” case with the integrated bracelet. Think 1985 Cartier Pasha with the thick round case with the hinged Vendôme lugs and the distinct crown design with a chain link attached to the side of the case. He was the master of blending sporty and luxe elements together and making them memorable and wearable at the same time. That was his magic.</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="A UG Polerouter" data-src="https://m4kxxr.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/11/echo/Universal-Geneve_Polerouter-Date-Automatic-18k-YG_Ref169101-07_3382_Lifestyle_015_HH_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>This led me to ask why we do not hear much more about other talented watch designers? Yes, there are independent watchmakers with their eponymous companies. However, for some reason, we do not hear much about the watch designers themselves. Jorg Hysek for the Vacheron Constantin “222” or Taro Tanaka for Seiko’s “Grammar of Design” are two other watch designers that first come to mind. We hear about collaborators from different fields contributing to watch designs, like famous architects including Tadao Ando for Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo. There must be more watch designers like Mr. Genta whose work we are familiar with but their names remain fairly anonymous to most. As the saying “it’s good to put a face to the name” goes, it feels like now is the right time to have more watch designers recognized for their work publicly, like this Polerouter <a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/polerouter-automatic-black-dial-bumper-ref-20217-4-case-no-1851484" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.</p> <p><i>Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your vintage watch through the Hodinkee Shop? Email us at <span id="eeb-472889-711847"></span><script type="litespeed/javascript">(function(){var ml="04emianvk.%ocgthd",mi="746>5=2:10?;@468229<;3",o="";for(var j=0,l=mi.length;j<l;j++){o+=ml.charAt(mi.charCodeAt(j)-48)}document.getElementById("eeb-472889-711847").innerHTML=decodeURIComponent(o)}())</script><noscript>*protected email*</noscript> with some photos. Want to sell your pre-owned watch? Click </i><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/pages/sell-or-trade?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=article-links" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><i>here</i></a><i>.</i></p> </div>
Scroll To Top
Close
Close
Shop
Sidebar
0 Wishlist
0 Cart
Close

My Cart

Shopping cart is empty!

Continue Shopping